Monday, December 12, 2011

Raf to take the reins at Dior?

"Since John Galliano’s dismissal from Dior in March, the brand has had trouble finding a new head designer. Marc Jacobs reportedly refused the job, as did Azzadine Alaia, Alber Elbaz and Riccardo Tisci. But this week Women’s Wear Daily reported that Dior is closing in on a deal with the Belgian designer Raf Simons. Simons, who designs for Jil Sander, as well as for his own menswear label, is a surprising choice." Forbes.


Huh. The Raf I remember was a little more ... Mark Leckey esque? 
He's done a good job at Jil Sander, and training Damir Doma (who cuts much better than he did early on). But Dior needs more of a Costumier than a Belgian Designer who caught the coat tails of Veronique Branquinho (ahem, yet was never part of the Antwerp 6) and built his reputation on subverting various youth cultures of the past (mainly from Germany and the UK so he never experienced them directly) and re-presenting them as catwalk fashion. He was doing menswear long before menswear went on the up, and was indeed pivotal. I always have props for Raf and think he is a talent.  No doubting that. But he's not a Hedi (mainly, he knows fashion not just how to direct a good veneer on it - one that potentially is pivotal in the resurgance of an entire gender taking pride in - and buying - clothing again). Guess we'll see. It's a new Era. 

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